Between McNamara's waves and the foam of the days

Categories
Nazareth, Big Waves, Surfing

Waves, big waves, huge waves, in the Nazaré canyon, on a day stolen from the foam of days, in the company of Mercedes-Benz and surfers McNamara and Hugo Vau, ambassadors of adrenaline Nothing attracts me more than what frightens me. There's something bipolar about me when I'm near the sea - and the water [...]